Drywall Repair

Installing Drywall: Mudding and Taping

Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.

Measuring and Ordering Drywall

Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4’x 8’ sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4’x12’, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home.

For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.

For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.

Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.

Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25” length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required.

Drywall Tools

Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2”x 4”s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3’ in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place.

In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.

If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For the taping knifes you will need a 6” wide blade and a 12” wide blade.

Preparing the site for Drywall

Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the building inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.

Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2” x 4”s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the ceiling should have strapping applied (1” x 3” cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.


Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.

Installing Drywall

Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards.

Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.

After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about ½ inches from the sub-floor.

For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.

Installing Corner bead

Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing.

Taping and Mudding

Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6” wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6” wide taping knife. Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.

The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.

Once the seams are done, using the 6” wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.

Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later.

Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the walls. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.

Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Second Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide the tape.

Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.

For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. A 6” taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections.

For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner.

Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Final Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.

Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.

Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.

For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.

Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,


Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud.

Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas.

Once sanding is completeScience Articles, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.

Source: Free Articles from ArticlesFactory.com

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more DIY Drywall installation and building home additions, and home repair and remodeling information visit HomeAdditionPlus.com and HomeAddition.blogspot.com.


Beadboard Panels

Installing Beadboard Panels

Beadboard is great for heavily used areas in the home. Beadboard is ideal for walls in kitchens, bathrooms and hallways or anywhere where there is a high likelihood of the walls to be regularly scuffed or scratched. Typically it is fastened to the lower half of walls and is topped off with a piece of cap rail.

Contrary to installing strips, installing beadboard panels is relatively an easy project for the do-it-yourself homeowner. Beadboard panels come in 4’x8’ sheets that have been manufactured to look exactly like a series of tongue and grooved beadboard strips fastened together. They are relatively lightweight and can be cut using a table saw.

Tools Required:

- Table Saw or Circular Saw- Miter Saw- Level- Pencil- Hammer- Screw Driver- Tape Measure- Safety Glasses- Paint BrushMaterials Required:

- Nails- Beadboard panels- Cap Rail- Baseboard Trim- Corner Molding- Vapor Barrier- Paint / PolyurethaneBefore installing panels in a room it is best to allow the boards to sit in the room for 2 or 3 days. This allows the panels to stabilize relative to the temperature and humidity of the room.

Installation starts with removing any baseboard trim that may be on the wall. Also remove outlet and switch covers that are located in the area where the beadboard is to be installed.

To install the beadboard panels, first start in a corner of the room and make a mark with a pencil at the top location of where you want to have the board to come to. Using a level and either a chalk line or pencil, make/draw a line the entire length of the wall at this height. You want to make sure that your line is level.

Next, place a section of trimmed panel up against the wall in the corner where you first made your mark. The trimmed panel should be cut to a height to allow it to be placed on the line and still have 1/8 to ¼ inch of clearance at the bottom. The gap at the bottom is necessary for thermal expansion of the panels.

When placing this first piece of trimmed panel up against the wall you will probably need to trim the edge of it to make it plumb with the wall. It is important that you do this to ensure that the vertical lines of the beadboard run perfectly perpendicular to the floor.

When securing the panel to the wall, leave about a 1/8th inch gap between the end of the panel and the corner to allow for thermal expansion. Likewise leave a 1/8th inch gap around doors and windows and cutouts for electrical outlets and switches.

To secure the beadboard panels to the wall, it is important to make sure you nail the panels to wall studs. Make sure you use finishing nails that are long enough to penetrate 3/4th of an inch to 1 inch into the wall studs.

The nails should be placed 6 to 8 inches apart along the edge of the panels and approximately ½ inch in from the edge of the panel.

If you are installing the beadboard in an area where there is high moisture content you should use non-corrosive nails. Also, if you are installing it in a basement area a vapor barrier should be tacked on the wall first prior to installation.

After you have fully nailed the first panel in place, continue along the length of the wall installing the next panel. Make sure to fully nail each panel in place prior to moving on to the next panel.

Once you have completed the installation of the beadboard in the room, secure a cap rail to the top of the panels, and fasten baseboard trim to the bottom of them. In the corners attach corner molding.

Depending upon what type of finished look you wantPsychology Articles, either seal the beadboard paneling with a couple of coats of clear polyurethane or paint.

Source: Free Articles from ArticlesFactory.com

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Drywall Repair

Quick Set Hot Mud and Drywall Repair

Quick set hot mud is a great alternative to standard joint compound, particularly if you are planning to make minor drywall repairs and want to complete the drywall repair quickly.

Though the pros frequently use quick set hot mud for large drywall taping and mudding projects, I hesitate to suggest its use to weekend DIY warriors for similar size projects. Quick set hot mud sets up fast and it is difficult to sand. My advice to DIY homeowners that want to tackle large drywall projects using quick set hot mud; use the longer drying times, e.g. 90 minutes or more.

Quick set hot mud comes in powder form and is sold in bags with drying times that range from 5 to 210 minutes.

Another reason quick set hot mud is ideal for drywall repair is that hot mud contains glue. Thus hot mud is helpful for gluing filler materials into drywall holes and cracks. Another advantage of hot mud is that it shrinks less than standard drywall. Consequently, you do not have to worry about the crack re-showing after the hot mud dries.

Quick Set Hot Mud Disadvantages

Besides setting up quickly, one additional disadvantage of hot mud is that it is tougher to sand. As a result, the pros frequently use quick set hot mud for applying their tape to the drywall, and then use standard joint compound for the top coats. Standard joint compound is much easier to sand.

Mixing Quick Set Hot Mud

To make up a batch of quick set hot mud, it is best to first pour a little water into your drywall mud pan. Then slowly pour a little quick set hot mud powder into the pan and mix it up with a 3-4 inch taping knife. After mixing the hot mud powder and water to a smooth consistency it is ready for use. If you need to adjust the consistency a little, add more water or hot mud powder appropriately.

Note: The mixing of quick set hot mud with water triggers the setting process of it. Consequently you want to limit the mixing until you are absolutely ready to begin applying it to the drywall. For example, if you spend 5 minutes mixing up a batch of 20 minute hot mud, you only have 10-15 minutes of application time.

Clean Tools Immediately after Applying Hot Mud

If you plan to use your drywall taping and mudding tools againFind Article, make sure you wash them off thoroughly immediately after applying the hot mud mixture.

Article Tags: Standard Joint Compound, Drywall Repair, Standard Joint, Joint Compound

Source: Free Articles from ArticlesFactory.com

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